Production of textile yarns



Nov. 24, 1936. w. A. DlCKlE ET AL 2,061,614

PRODUCTION OF TEXTILE YARNS Filed May 19, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 WILLIAM A- D\CK1E ROBERT w-MoNcmEFF INUENTORS Nov. 24-, 1936.

w. A. DICKIE ET AL 2,061,614 PRODUCTION OF TEXTILE YARNS Filed May 19, 1931 2 Slets$1eet 2 WILUAM A-DICKIE ROBERT W MONCRlEFF ATIORMEYS Nov. 24,1936

UNITED STATES PAT 2,961,614 PRODUCTION OF TEXTILE Y Application May 19. 1931, Seriai No. 539,486 In Great Britain Jully. 12, 1930 This invention relates to the production of,

twisted yarns, and is particularly concerned with the production of crepe yarns, such as are used in" the manufacture of crepe fabrics, for example crepe de chine, crepe marocain, georgette and the like.

The yarns used for these purposes are characterized in that they possess a high degree of twist, and when woven into fabric and subjected toa shrinking treatment are reduced in length to produce the crepe effect. This effect may be enhanced by. adopting the methods described in U. S. applications S. Nos. 491,070 filed October 24, 1930, 501,461 filedDecember 10,1930, 514,898 and 514,899 filed February ,10, 1931, and U'. S. applications S. ,Nos.'530,728, filedApril 16, 1931; 527,358, filed April 2, 1931 and 535,287, filed May 5, 1931, corresponding to British applications Nos.

I 13,670/30, 14,077/30 and 15,153/30 respectively,

- improved results, are obtained by imparting high;

according to which swellingof the filaments,

and/or of sizing materials with which the yarns are coated before or after (though preferably before) they are twisted, is effected by subjecting the fabrics to a suitable aqueous or other scouring treatment. j These methods are of particular advantage in their application to artificial yarns of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose. x

, Othermethods of producing crepe efiects are describedjin U. S. applications S. Nos. 523,930 and 523,931 flied March 19, 1931,'according to which twist ,to jcrpe yarns in two or more stages between which the yarns may be sized, by imparting a higher twist than that normally employed, and

by the use of crepe yarns containing artificial fila- 'ment'sof low. or very low denier, and particularly artificial filaments of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose.

The present invention has "for its' object the production of enhanced crepe effects by a modifi- Ycationof the niethod in which the crpeyarns are twisted. f

, 3A" rding" to thelinventi'oncrpe yarns have a high. degree ,of, twist,'whi ;h,' instead of being uni;

' ftforpralong the lengthof theyarns fluctuates from point to point along the yarn; The fluctuation-or irregularity in the degree of twist may occur at regular cr irreg'ular intervals along the length of theyarn andmaybe'of varying extent. The fluct' ations may, moreover, appear as're'gular'or irregular groups occurring periodicallyalong the vyarn. y

C h ya inst having the above "characteristicsa when b ssv m gdu t twisting course of twisting or doubling by means of a flier device, a ring and traveller device, or-a cap-spinning device, in all of which devices the yarn is fed positively to the twisting means, while the collection of the yarn proceeds automatically at the same rate as feeding. The rate of feeding is caused to fluctuate,-so that the degree of twist imparted is caused to vary approximately in- I V versely to the rate of feeding. On the other hand, the invention may be applied to twisting by means of devices in which the yarn is twisted on its dc livery from a supply bobbin on which it has been wound, the twisted yarn being positively collected, and thereby automatically removed from the supply bobbin. In this case the speed of positive collection is varied so that a varying degree of twist is imparted to the yarn.

The twisting may be efiected by rotating the supply bobbin from "which the yarn is drawn. Alternatively the yarn may be twisted by means of a device in'which more than one twist is imparted for each revolution of the twisting spindle, the

passes therefrom. i

If desired,'two or more yarns may be doubled together continuously with the imparting of the fluctuating degree of twist.

The variation of the driving speed of the receiving or the feeding means may be accomplished in several ways. Thus for example, elliptical gears may be used to drive these devices, or any other. form of variable speed gears, and such, gears may be arranged in series to produce any desired system of speed variation. In addition to such gears, or instead of them, intermittent driving means may be used, so that. over intervals, regular or irregular, the drive of the yarnis stopped altogether, and twist is imparted toa stationary portion of theyarn. Such intermittent and fluctuating driving'means may be. applied'to the main drive of a number of machinesbr to the individualdrive of afsingle machine'.

Yarns having. ,an irregular-twist according to the invention may be used for the production of fabrics may consist wholly of these yarns, or they may contain other kinds of yam.' Thus, for example, either the weft or the warp or part of the weft and/or part of the warp may consist of other yarns. The invention may be applied with especial advantage to artificial yarns of. cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose for the production of crepe fabrics wholly or partially consisting of such yarns. The invention may, however, be applied to yarns containing other artificial filaments, e. g. viscose, nitrocellulose and cuprammonium artificial silk, or natural materials such as cotton, wool or silk. The yarns may consist of mixtures of two or more of any of the above materials, and may consist wholly of continuous filaments or of staple fibres or of mixtures thereof.

Several methods of carrying out the invention will now be described in greater detail with respect to apparatus in which twisting is effected at delivery of the yarn from the supply package, but it is to be understood that this description is given by way of example only, and is in no respect limitative.

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of one form of twisting device and take-up device according to the invention;

Fi 2 is a front elevation of vice shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of a twisting device provided with a further form of take-up device;

Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the take-up device shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a side elevation of means for driving a twisting device at intermittently varying speed; and

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of another form of device for the same purpose as that shown in Figure 5.

Referring to Figures 1 and 2, a yarn II is drawn from the supply bobbin l2 mounted on and rotated at a high speed by spindle l3. The yarn leaving the bobbin |2 follows a balloonshaped path I4, and passes through a floating ring |5 mounted on the upper end of. spindle |3 on which the bobbin is driven. From the ring IS the yarn passes through thread'guides l6 to a traversing guide H which leads it to the takeup bobbin l8. The take-up bobbin 3 is rotated by means of its spindle 9, the spindle being driven by means of a leather covered friction wheel 2|]. The friction wheel 20 is driven on its shaft 2| the drive being communicated by means of gears 22, 22' to a similar parallel shaft (not shown). It will be seen that a number of twisting devices and take-up devices may be driven from the shaft 2|, a second series symmetrical with the first being driven by means of the gears 22, 22' and by the other shaft.

Part of the leather on the wheel 20 is cut away, the remainder of the leather being left as shown at 23. The wheel 20 acts upon a drum 24 mounted on the spindle l9. For intervals in each revolution of the friction wheel 2|! the bobbin is driven by the leather 23, and for thegremainder of the time it is stationary. The ends of the spindle l9 are mounted in vertical slots 25 which allow the spindle to rise under the action of the driving leather 23 but do not. allow it to fall into contact with that'part of the wheel 20 which is not covered with driving leather. A small weight 26 on the spindle prevents the bobbin from being rotated by the back tension in the yarn II when the friction wheel 20 is not in driving contact.

Referring to Figures 3 and 4, the yarn II is the take-up deremoved from the bobbin l2 in a manner similar to that described with respect to Figure l, and passes through a thread guide l6 and a traversing guide H to a take-up bobbin I8 in the same way. The bobbin 8 is freely mounted on the spindle I9 and is driven by means of a roller 21 rotating on a. shaft 28 in driving contact with the yarn on the bobbin I8. Cams 29 are provided on each end of the take-up driving roller 21, the cams being adapted to engage drums 30 on the spindle |9 of the take-up bobbin 8, and to lift the bobbin out of contact with the driving roller 21. The take-up spindle I9 is mounted in vertical slots 25, so that as the bobbin fills, it may rise, and still contact with the driving roller 21. The slots 25 readily allow the bobbin to be lifted by the cam 29 out of reach of the roller 21. In order to ensure that the bobbin l8 does not rotate when out of contact with the roller 21, a spring catch 3| is provided and is adapted to engage the fiange 32 of. the take-up bobbin I8 when the bobbin is lifted.

In each of the arrangements described above the yarn is twisted by the rapid rotation of the supply bobbin I2 in the manner described in detail in British specification No. 304,806 which corresponds to U. S. Patent No. 1,78 4,581. The peripheral speed of the bobbin I2 is considerably higher than the rate at which the yarn is drawn off the bobbin by the take-up device. At the same time, the take-up bobbin I8 is caused to rotate intermittently. Thus, while the bobbin is being driven, the yarn is being twisted in the normal manner, but while the bobbin 8 is stationary the-length of yarn between the supply bobbin l2 and the take-up bobbin I8 is receiving an extra degree of twist, so that irregularities of twist are produced.

Referring to Figure 5, this shows means for driving intermittently either a take-up device drawing yarn from a twisting device or alternatively a feeding device adapted to deliver yarn to 'a twisting device. This form of. drive may be adapted either to drive an individual take-up or feeding device, or a machine comprising several of such devices. A constant drive is applied to the shaft 40 which, through gears 4|, 42, 43 rotates a crank 44. The crank pin 45 on the end of the crank 44, fits into a slot 46 in a lever 41. The lever is pivoted at astationary point 4|} and to the lever is attached a rod 49 at. a pivot point 50. The rod 49 carries at its free end a pawl 5| which is adapted to rotate a gear wheel 52. The rotating crank 44 oscillates the lever 41 with a slow driving stroke and a quick return stroke, and this motion is transmitted to the wheel 52 by means of the rod 49 and the pawl 5|. The pawl 5| is maintained in correct radial position with reference to the gear 52 by means of a stirrup 53 to which the rod 49 and the pawl 5| are pivoted at 54. The stirrup is pivoted at 55 to the axis of rotation of the gear wheel 52. The gear wheel 52 drives a further gear wheel 56 mounted on a shaft 51 which in turn drives the take-up or the feeding roller of a twisting device, the drive being thereby effected intermittently to produce a fluctuating or intermittently varying twist in the yarn twisted in the machine. Holes 46', are provided in the lever 41 in order to allow for the adjustment of the pivot points 46 of the lever" and 50 of the rod 49, so that different degrees of fluctuation may be obtained.

Figure 6 shows a device adapted to perform a. function similar to that of the device shown in Figure 5. The drive proceeds through the shaft 40 through gears ll, 42 to a gear 43. Rigidly fixed to the gear 43 and eccentrically disposed thereon is a gear 60. It will be seen that the peripheral speed of the gear wheel Bil is different at different vals along the length of the yarn. p 1

points on its circumference. The gear Gil meshes with a pinion M which revolves on a stub shaft 5 l mounted on a lever 62 which is free to oscillate on the shaft 63. A chain drive it, oscillating with the lever 62 carries the drive to a further pinion 65 revolving also on the shaft 63. From here the drive proceeds through a pinion (it, a chain ti and a pinion 68 to the shaft 69 on which the gear wheel 43 is freely mounted, and which constitutes the drive shaft to one or a number of takeup devices or feeding devices. A pair of gears m, ii are shown carrying the drive from the shaft 69 to a parallel shaft (not shown) in order to drive a further twisting device, or series of such devices.-

What we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:--

1. Crepe yarns having a degree of twist which fluctuates appreciably at short intervals along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout.

2. Crepe yarns containing filaments of cellulose acetate and having a degree of twist which fluctuates appreciably at short intervals along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout.

3. Crepe yarns having a degree of twist which fluctuates appreciably at short intervals regularly along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout.

4. Crepe yarns containing fllanients of organic derivatives of cellulose and having a degree of twist which fluctuates appreciably at short intervals regularly along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout.

5. Crepe yarns containing continuous filaments, which yarns have a degree of twist which fluctuates appreciably at shortintervals along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout. a

6. Crepe yarns containing continuous fllamen of organic derivatives of cellulose, which yarns have a. degree of twist which fluctuates appreciably at short intervals regularly along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout.

7. Crepe yarns containing continuous filaments of cellulose acetate, which yarns have a degreeoi twist which fluctuates appreciably at short intervals regularly along their length, said yarns being of substantially uniform diameter throughout.

8. Process for the manufacture oi crepe yarns, which comprises causing a yarn to travel from one point to another, twisting the travelling yarn at at least one of such points and periodically varying the ratio between the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole between said two points and the rate of twisting s6 as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of twist at short inter- .twist along the length of the yam.

9. Process for the manufacture of crepe yarns, which comprises causing a yarn to travel from one point to another, imparting twist at a regular rate to the travelling yarn at at least one of said points and. periodically varying the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole between said two points so as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of twist at short intervals along the length of the yarn.

10. Processs for the manufacture of crepe yarns, which comprises drawing a yarn from a source of supply, imparting twist to the yarn at a regular rate as it is drawn from such source oi supply, collecting the yarn as it is drawn from the source of supply-and varying the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole between said source. of supply and the point of collection so as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of twist at short intervals along the length of the yarn. e

11. Process for the manufacture of crepe yarns, which comprises causing a yarn containing filaments of cellulose acetate to travel from one point to another, twisting the travelling yarn at at least one of said points and periodically varying theratio between the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole between said two. points and the rate of twisting so as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of twist at short intervals along the length of the yarn.

12. Apparatus for the manufacture of crepe yarns, comprising meansfor causing a yam to travel from one point to another, means at one of said points for imparting twist to the travelling yarn and means for causing the ratio between the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole between said points and the rate of twisting to fluctuate at short intervals so as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of twist along the length of the yarn.

13. Apparatus for the manufacture of crepe yarns, comprising means for causing a yarn to travel from one point to another, means at one of said points for imparting twist-at a regular rate to the travelling yarn and means for causing the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole between said points to fluctuate at short intervals so as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of r 14. Apparatus for the manufacture of crepe yarns, comprising a yarn twisting device, a yarn collecting device, means for driving said twisting device at a constant rate to impart twist to a yarn travelling therefrom, and means for driving said collecting device at a periodicallyfluctuating rate so as to cause the-ratio between the rate of travel of the yarn as a whole from such twisting device to said collecting device and the rate of twisting to vary so as to produce a corresponding appreciable irregularity of twist along the length of the yarn.

WILLIAM ALEXANDER DICKIE. ROBERT WIGHTON MONCRIEFF. 

